in my efforts to recreate some of my past life here in Istanbul and to stave off bouts of homesickness, i often find myself searching out ethnic food for solace. unfortunately, foreign food in Istanbul is expensive and not usually very authentic, probably due to less of a concentration of foreigners compared to other major cities, a lack of authentic ingredients and a lack of competition.
Curiously, foreign chain restaurants show up here as franchises whose steep prices are difficult to swallow, considering the prices back home are cheap compared to their Istanbul cousins.
I also admit i have a hard time paying high prices for certain ethnic cuisines, most of which are cheap, excellent & plentiful at home - namely, Chinese, Mexican, Indian, Thai, Vietnamese, Malaysian, etc. unless they are prepared by a celebrity chef like Jean Georges Vongrichten - no complaints with Spice Market at the W Hotel Istanbul.
so my latest culinary adventure was to find good Indian in Istanbul. my search came up with 3 restaurants: Dubb in Sultanahmet, Taj Mahal in Cihangir, & Musafir in Beyoglu. Based on the menus and reviews, i voted for Dubb, although it is expensive which goes against my rule of having to pay a lot for Indian, it has a beautiful terrace which is always a draw for me. plus i have resigned myself to the fact that here it is a necessary evil to pay a lot if you want to eat anything other than Turkish. After having paid exorbitant prices for Italian, Thai & Mexican, I have begrudgingly given in, as a trade off to fuel my ethnic food cravings. After having lived in NYC eating a different country's cuisine for each meal and with a never ending supply of new, fabulous restaurants to sample, I understandably get frustrated at mealtimes.
So June 7th was my 1 year anniversary here in Istanbul, more than reason enough to celebrate, and so, against my husband's aversion to everything Indian, despite his never having eaten Indian food, he gave in to my request. He did protest against my choice of Dubb, due to his opinion that all restaurants in Sultanahmet are tourist traps, do, against my reluctance to have Indian food prepared by a chef from Pakistan, we decided on Taj Mahal, which my husband chose because the Musafir's website was not working.
In my review on tripadvisor of the restaurant, i titled it, "not bad for Istanbul, but not very good." enough said. at least it was not expensive and the mango lassi was actually much better than the ones i had in India, but the naan was outright wrong -sort of a cross between a simit and naan - very disappointing and strangely very different from the photo on the website. maybe the food is better at their Tunel location? or the food photos are actually from a stock photo company? and sadly we were alone in the dining room at prime time dinner hour on a Sunday evening.
2 weeks ago, we made a trip to El Torito in Etlier, which does not warrant a repeat trip. The restaurant seemed like it could feed about 300 people but had about 6 customers total that evening. I also read that the dishes were adjusted to Turkish tastes, which explained the fried outer tortilla of my burrito (durum style). the chips were going a bit rancid and the sour cream tasted like the UHT cream they have here that was turning bad - a literal translation of "sour cream" and no cilantro in sight! when i complained to a friend, she suggested Chilis, just down the street, which she promised had real sour cream - so i'll try that next time i jones for Mexican.
I think i will make my own ethnic food the next time a craving strikes - even though it will be just as expensive if i am able to find the ingredients, and time consuming, at least it will be a bit closer to the real thing.
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It's a shame that you didn't go with Dubb. I've been there a couple of times, and while I can't compare it to others, I must say it's pretty good for Istanbul Indian. The curries and samosas are always good, I'd give the tandoori a miss - i found it too salty, but the garlic naan was really good. I was impressed. The service is great and they speak English/Turkish/Indian even. I felt the same way about the tourist traps. But last time I was there an Indian man was eating (with his hand no less) and seemed to eat up every last bit of food on his plate and let out a huge burp at the end. So he must have been happy! You can't go past the terrace either.
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